Green and indoors
호안끼엠 shore, Literature courtyards, Thong Nhat Park and Ethnology outdoor houses beat night lanes. Budget rest and air-con; go indoors at midday heat. Ethnology is west — a half-day alone, not jammed onto the end of an 구시가 day.
What to skip
Skip late 맥주거리, 기차거리 tracks, and long 릉 queues (plaza exterior only if children cannot wait). Dress still covers shoulders/knees for the 릉. Night: a 호안끼엠 stroll or an early hotel return.